. In a Land Without Darkness .
“A mind that is stretched by a new experience can never go back to its old dimensions.”
– Oliver Wendell Holmes
– Oliver Wendell Holmes
| Iceland |
As the plane started it's descent into Keflavik we could see the tops of the mountains peaking out above the clouds. A community themselves in what could be confused with the white wash of the ocean's waves. Slowly we cut through the clouds and the country below came into view. A country we were about to adventure through and conquer. We didn't know then how many amazing, new, and breath taking views we'd see. We didn't know how great the food would taste, the sea would smell, or the sand would feel on our feet. From the ghost towns, to the purple fields, lava fields and fresh glacier water, we experienced so much more than we could have hoped for. It's a country that simply cannot be described and pictures cannot express it's beauty. You have to be there.
Iceland life by Panoramic. 
Sunset over Reykjavik from the Rooftop of our hotel
     
"Sunset" at midnight on our way to Dettifoss
     
Hverfjall Crater, Myvatn.
.A Road trip Around Iceland.
Our journey started in Reykjavik. We spent our first weekend, the weekend of summer solstice, in a vibrant city with no darkness. When I say no darkness, I mean there was a small window of 'dusk' approximately 1230am-200am. We ate delicious food, I mean one of the top 10 meals kind of food, in small basement restaurants and sitting on outdoor sunny patios. The weather wasn't hot but it was warm and spring like which was perfect for walking around. Little shops lining the streets, tiny restaurants downstairs in basements or upstairs looking down on the streets, all playing music, usually live music in the evening, made for a cheery comfortable feeling. The city which it's clean cobblestone sidewalks, main shop roads closed to vehicles, had a safe and touristy feel that welcomed anyone.
  
Who needs online dating. Single gloves. Search for your other half.
   
Hallgrimskirkja
Largest Church in Iceland, named after an Icelandic poet. 73 meters tall, taking 38 years to build. The design was inspired by the basalt lava flows seen throughout Iceland.
                        An ode to the sun. It promises "undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom". .Outside the City. Who likes Mondays? Not many people. This Monday, is where our adventure began, and we were itching for it, big time. We were about to start our 2,843 km drive around Iceland. When you travel in a car 1 foot from another person, for 8 days, you wonder how it'll go. Even when you travel with your best friend and partner, there could be hiccups. We came out alive, no scratches, no hiccups. We of course took a few wrong turns (using a map because we cheaped out on a GPS) and 1 night had to sleep in a hotel, but no one cried over the spilt beer, it was hugely successful. I am so grateful for the decision to use a map instead of GPS. First there was no one talking to you from inside the car at every turn. Secondly, it was an even bigger adventure than I could imagine. We paid attention to every detail, every road. Our map showed us where backroads leading to isolated glaciers and waterfalls lie. It showed us elevation and beach access. We didn't put in a town name and mindlessly drive for 8 hours potentially missing so many hidden gems that we had the opportunity to enjoy. Yes, there were times that I, as the navigator, fell asleep and woke up and completely missed telling Kris the turn. Somehow he just laughed this off, each time. We rented a jeep 4x4 style vehicle that had only the two front seats and the back had mats for a bed, a sink with water, a one burner stove, the works. We had our whole life (travel life) in our vehicle. What a great feeling that was. (The travel company was called "Camp Easy" out of Reykjavik for any of you planning to go to Iceland - it truly was just so easy). We started into the enterior to hit the Golden Circle where we visited Thingvellir National Park then headed to the Great Geysir and Gulfoss. Thingvellir is a huge national park full of lakes, towering snow capped mountains and beautiful green fields. As you walk into the park, you walk between two tectonic plates. The plates shoot out above you in towering rock formations. There are marked and unmarked trails that you can explore through the grounds hiking for many hours if you choose to.               
Heading South from the "Golden Circle" we noticed a sign looking like people sitting in a hot tub. We decided to head into the town area where we found our first hot spring experience. This hot spring happened to be the original hot spring built in Iceland dating back to 1891. Serendipity my Grandma would like to call that. And how beautiful and hot it was. Being 9:30 pm at the time we arrived there were only a few people there which made it a peaceful experience.
Secret Lagoon. Originally built in 1891.
 .South Iceland.    As we drove along the Southern coast of Iceland I couldn't believe the magnificent purple fields. Sometimes the wild flowers grew all the way from the edge of the ocean up the mountain side. It was like being in a dream (as most of Iceland was). As we continued along the coast we saw some of the most breathtaking scenery imaginable. The world is great. Black sand beaches, waterfalls, and iceberg lagoons filled our eyes and our hearts for many more kilometres.    Along the Southern Coast of Iceland, before the Black Sand Beach lies a beautiful hot spring in the bottom of a mountain valley. We'd read about Seljavallalaug and decided to search for it. After a 15 minute drive down a gravel road we passed small guest houses and decided we must be heading in the right direction. Today was our second day on the road and the only day it rained on our trip. We were soaked and it was a beautiful adventure. We walked an easy 20 minutes down an open trail that led to an old, unkept, hot tub built in the 20's. There were a few people there when we arrived but the water was warm on a rainy day. The fog was low and we counted probably 10 tiny waterfalls poking through it, surrounding us. As we enjoyed the warm water we watched the sheep scale the mountain sides and relaxed in a little paradise away for the crowds of tourists.  
Seljavallalaugh, 1923.
 
Skogafoss
 This Black Sand Beach sits along side the tiny town of Vik. Vik is the most southern town in Iceland. The beach isn't so much sand but more so tiny smooth rocks. Basalt columns and caves line the beach. The seagulls and puffins make their home in the high vertical ridges along the shores, entertaining guests. The black sand is made as the lava flow reached the ocean. As the lava touches the ocean it explodes into small pieces.       
           This beautiful Glacier Lagoon is one of the most serene and magnificent things I've ever seen. Watching the Glaciers move above, listening to the crack of the ice and drip of it melting. You find peace, instantly.   
We didn't spend much time adventuring through Eastern Iceland. We drove along the South East Coast until we got to the inside of Berufjordur and then took a central highland route up to Egilsstadir. The Eastern Coast is just as beautiful as the West with the winding mountain side roads overlooking the ocean. We took a dinner break and headed into Seydisfjordur before continuing our long drive to Myvatn. 
   A nice roadside stop for a beach walk.      
Getting fresh water from the glacier stream on the top of a mountain.
Driving through the highlands
 
Heading over the Mountains to Seydisfjordur
The winding descent
  .North Central Iceland. As we entered Central Northern Iceland we took a side road to the large Northern waterfall, Dettifoss. At around midnight the sun was still up, but heading down, so we hiked in the golden glow with only a few other people around. Getting closer to Myvatn we could see steam in the distance. We initially thought, yes those are the hot baths... we can swim there. At midnight, with beautiful blue skies, we pulled up and realized that in fact these boiling 100 degree pits of mud and water were nothing close to what we could swim in. The sulphur smell filled every pore as you step out of the vehicle. The hard mud path lined by a tiny string to tell people where to walk, is slightly unnerving as the ground bubbles beside you. It was truly incredible and fascinating to watch the ground melt, bubble and hiss all around us. As we continued our journey we stopped at the Grjotagja caves before finding a campground to stay in. For our third night on the road we slept in a field listening to the sheep roam around us. It was a campground this time and not the side of the road so I enjoyed the hot shower. Our time in Myvatn was spent wandering through lava fields with stones jutting up around us. The air was much hotter up North and more humid. We visited Myvatn's blue Jardbodin Nature Baths for some R&R in the morning before they got too busy. From Myvatn we drove West towards the Westfjords. We had another delicious Fish and Chips in Akureyri and walked around the town before continuing to our awaited destination.    
Dimmuborgir
Campground in Myvatn
Akureyri
Akureyri
After many people had suggested, over enthusiastically, that we spend most of our time in the Westfjords, we were pretty excited to arrive. It was almost as if we felt at ease. Okay, now we can relax, we made it. Driving into the fjords, again late at night, we could see the sun setting over the long rock formations. If we stayed in that spot long enough we could watch it come right back up soon after, not far over the same formation. The views were incredible. We spent our first night in a little ghost town, looking for a famous witch craft museum. We'd heard the weird and quirky stories of the fjords. However, it was unfortunately not open on the day we were there, so we only saw the small town for it's non eerie day light side. There are many traditional tales of witchery, trolls, and fairies in the lands of Iceland. Driving through it with the rolling lava fields, tiny homes and fairy like purple feels I can definitely see why most of these tales have stuck for so many years. As we made our way through the Westfjords we visited hot springs and farmhouse restaurants in the hills, took boat tours to tiny islands, and scaled the cliffs of a jeep trail on the coast. We visited white sand and red sand beaches, watched the Puffins perch on cliffs, and were dive bombed by the aggressive Arctic Tern protecting her nest. We camped outside waterfalls in windy bays and travelled by ferry across Breidafjordur before landing on Snaefellsnes Peninsula, our final destination.   
Sunset and moon
Hot Spring Pool
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Caution : There are always sheep crossing. |
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| At the top of a mountain, this is what you'll see. |
Some beautiful horses who loved a good snuggle
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| Curious “The important thing is not to stop questioning. Curiosity has its own reason for existing.” |
Vigur Island, our day tour from Isafjordur
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| Arctic Tern. This bird aggressively dives at anyone's head who walks near her nest. We had to hold sticks high above our heads so she would dive at the highest point. |
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| Arctic Tern nest. |
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| The oldest remaining Mill in Iceland. |
Heading out on to the Jeep track. There will definitely be no towns anytime soon.
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| 4X4 Jeep track in the Westfjords. |
“Once a year, go someplace you’ve never been before.”
– Dalai Lama
– Dalai Lama
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| Jeep trail |
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| From the cliffs to the sea on the Jeep Trail. |
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| Near Hrafnabjorg, Westfjords. Abandoned house on the Jeep track |
Dynjandi Waterfall. Our camping view out our back door.
Tropical beaches of the Westfjords. They're still cold.
Near Talknafjordur, Westfjords.
Near Talknafjordur, Westfjords.
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| A ship from 1912, in the Westfjords Iceland. Thought to be the oldest in Iceland. |
A small Museum on the side of the highway.
There was so much anticipation around seeing these beautiful birds. We drove out to the Latrabjarg Bird Cliffs and spent time walking around quietly and carefully taking pictures of these beauties, high on the cliffs edge.
Latrabjarg Cliffs
The westernmost point of Iceland which houses millions of birds. The cliffs are the largest bird cliffs in all of Europe. They are 441m in height at the highest point and are 14 km long. We visited just a small point of the cliffs.
The westernmost point of Iceland which houses millions of birds. The cliffs are the largest bird cliffs in all of Europe. They are 441m in height at the highest point and are 14 km long. We visited just a small point of the cliffs.
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Red Sand Beach
Hellulaug Hotspring
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.Western Iceland.
Snaefellsnes Peninsula was our last stop off, the day before we flew back to Canada. We arrived on the ferry in Stykkisholmur where we enjoyed seafood at a little coastal restaurant. Snaefellsnes Peninsula is known as the "mini Iceland". Many people who visit Iceland for only a few days can travel to the peninsula and see smaller versions of what Iceland has to offer. Our first stop was at Kirkjufell Mountain. We were told to stop here as it's the most photographed destination in Iceland and holds so much beauty. I can see how it would, but after all of the natural wonders we had seen, it blended in for sure. We drove around the peninsula to see the beaches and glacier. We also went on a caving tour and warmed up from the wind in an ocean side hot spring.
Snaefellsnes Peninsula was our last stop off, the day before we flew back to Canada. We arrived on the ferry in Stykkisholmur where we enjoyed seafood at a little coastal restaurant. Snaefellsnes Peninsula is known as the "mini Iceland". Many people who visit Iceland for only a few days can travel to the peninsula and see smaller versions of what Iceland has to offer. Our first stop was at Kirkjufell Mountain. We were told to stop here as it's the most photographed destination in Iceland and holds so much beauty. I can see how it would, but after all of the natural wonders we had seen, it blended in for sure. We drove around the peninsula to see the beaches and glacier. We also went on a caving tour and warmed up from the wind in an ocean side hot spring.
Kirkjufell.
Snaefellsnes Glacier
One of our trip highlights was the incredible 1 hr tour under the ground. We visited the Vatnshellir caves where we travels 35 meters under the ground and learned about the incredible layers of lava that created this beautiful country.
Snaefellsnes Glacier
Anarstapi
Arnastapi
We read in a travel magazine about this amazing mineral spring in Snaefellsnes Peninsula. The spring has natural carbonated water rich in potassium, magnesium and iron. It was just a short distance off the road. It's thought to bring great health. Unfortunately, the iron taste was a bit too overpowering for us. Still, such an amazing natural spring.
Basalt Lava Columns
Gerðuberg, Iceland.
Tiny Homes
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| Two maps put together. Our 2,843 km route around Iceland. |
“The use of traveling is to regulate imagination with reality, and instead of thinking of how things may be, see them as they are.”
– Samuel Johnson
